Saturday, June 19, 2010
Day 22.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Istanbul Ultimate.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Stripmalls and 'Development'.
At first, the sight of a Best Buy next to a McDonalds was something I was amazed at. The same with the paved roads and traditional road stops. I’m not saying, by any means, that I’m not relishing the paved roads, but being in Ankara hit a bit too close to “America home.” It was what once was familiar. And I’m no longer really that person I was back then; wholly, at least. I once again kind of felt those desolate feelings as I did in Wilmington when surrounded by all those then universal and faceless brands and stores and missed the quaintness of running downstairs to go to the bazaar in Mingechevir. Funny, huh? I kind of love both worlds, but, obviously, for entirely different reasons. Grass is always greener and all that jazz?
I don’t think I’ll object being back in the world that I know, but it does make me question the idea of what is and isn’t developed. Perhaps a little less development wouldn’t be a bad thing.
Thank goodness for Farmer Markets and what remains of Mom and Pop shops, ey?
Azerbaijan?
In conversations I’ve had with Turkish people and other expats, I find myself seeing and conveying Azerbaijan as a terribly confused state. I’m a bit more sympathetic away from there than I am while living it; that’s for sure.
Think about it. Here’s Azerbaijan. A tiny country off the coast of the Caspian Sea sandwiched between Russia, Iran, and 2 other Christian countries (Russia being the 1st), Armenia and Georgia. There are so many culturally different things about Azerbaijan because of location alone. Add on top of that being post-Soviet and Islamic, engaged in a seemingly never-ending war, and being a country rich in oil and natural gasses… there’s got to be some confusion.
Azerbaijan wants to be more like Turkey, but is still influenced by Soviet mentality and a rising Islamic movement. There are contradictions running rampant.
With all those factors plus everything else going on, I would be confused, too.
A Turkish Dialect.
Traveling in Turkey has been a breeze. Living and serving in Azerbaijan has given me the language skills to get around and be decently understood by many Turkish people. There are, of course, some things that don’t cross over, but a lot of what I need has worked out well enough.
What I’ve discovered, though, is that when I speak Azeri to people here, they’re a bit shocked I’m speaking anything resembling Turkish and are happy to be a little more patient to get through a conversation. I’ve had some lovely chats throughout Turkey and have gotten more free tea and other random little presents because of it.
Love in Another Language.
As I mentioned here, I watched a Turkish film. It's called Baska Dilde Ask or Love in Another Language.This movie is apparently making waves in Turkey at the moment for acknowledging the issue of disabled and impaired people. The male lead in the movie is deaf and begins a relationship with a girl who isn’t. The film follows the difficulties of the blossoming affair. There was no real exciting story, but it did bring up a great amount of talking points and I am fortunate I was able to watch it with a Turkish woman. And, she’s a Turkish woman who volunteers with disabled people and various other projects to boot.
After talking with my Turkish host, I was able to find out that the way the Turkish treat disabled people is very similar to Azerbaijan. Disabled people aren’t really focused on; they’re ignored and pushed aside. The idea of a “normal” person dating one who “isn’t” is something that Turkey (and many other places) hasn’t confronted.
Though the movie wasn’t epic by any means, I can see how it is groundbreaking.
Girls Night.
My last night in Ankara, we went to Kavanc’s house to have wine, dinner, and watch a Turkish chick-flick (that wasn’t as chick-flicky as I thought it might be). I got to talk about Azerbaijan, learn more about Turkey, and figure out similarities and differences between where I live and where I currently am. I was also able to enjoy the company of good and interesting people, which is lovely. We had an incredible dinner of Turkish mezzas, spinach artichoke dip, and lovely conversation. The movie being good was completely just to boot.
I know our host that evening is quite well-traveled and has worked with foreigners for several years and it showed in her house. She exuded the best parts of both worlds. The Turkish hospitality was there and genuine, but she also had pictures around her house of her and her husband being silly and smiling. After being post-Soviet for so long, seeing picture of happy people throws me off, but in a good way.
Ankara for the win.
Luxuries.
The first longer bus I grabbed was from Hopa to Erzurum. It was a smaller bus, but they served my traveling companion, Jessica, and I cold drinks. We were in shock. This was the first luxury thrown at us in this foreign land. Surprisingly, to me, though, it got better. From Erzurum we caught a bus to Kayseri to eventually go to Goreme. It was on this bus we were also served hot beverages, including coffee. I can barely drink anything on transportation in Azerbaijan, much less an open cup of coffee. The next ride from Kayseri to Goreme brought the new addition of snacks! It seemed as if each leg of my journey was bringing me a bit more West. After holing up in Goreme for a couple days, I got on a bus and headed to Ankara. This bus brought something I couldn’t even imagine… a personal touchscreen monitor. This monitor is on the backs of every seat and you have the selection of a variety of music, movies, TV channels and games. I’m currently on my last bus for Turkey and it’s to Istanbul. I have all of the above amenities plus wireless internet.
According to my new Ankara friend, Carrie, there are cheap flights throughout Turkey, so buses are in competition for customers. So, to compete properly, buses come equipped with a steward, beverages, snacks, entertainment, and, on some, wireless internet. Even with all these comforts, I’m not going to lie, my favorite part has been the paved and smooth roads throughout the entirety of the country. The simple things…
It’s a good thing I land-routed through this trip before I head out to the UK. I shouldn’t be as awkward as I might have been otherwise.
